Lodi

The Central Valley wine region in California is a vast and diverse area known for its significant contribution to the state’s wine production.  Many producers are known for bulk production of wine, responsible for 75% of the state's total wine production.  Many of the wines are value-oriented wines, making them accessible to a broad market, including most grocery stores and supermarkets.  Stretching from the Sacramento Valley in the north to the San Joaquin Valley in the south, this region is characterized by its warm climate, fertile soils, and large-scale vineyards.  The Central Valley experiences a hot, Mediterranean climate, with long, dry summers and mild winters.  This climate is ideal for growing a variety of grape types including Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc. 

As winemaking first started in southern California by the Spanish Franciscans, like palm production, it related to religious practice, specifically to make wine for communion.  And as the missions migrated north, winemaking also expanded.  Father Junipero Serra was instrumental in grape production expansion under the mission system, with the mission grape, a Vitis Vinifera varietal.  The missions served as centers of agricultural innovation and education as they get expanding up the California coast from the first mission San Diego de Alcala in 1769, to Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa in 1772 to Mission Santa Barbara in 1786.   The Franciscan friars taught Native Americans how to cultivate grapes and produce wine, spreading viticultural information.  Over time, as missions were secularized in the 1830s and lands were distributed, many of these vineyards were taken over by private landowners, who continued to and expanded production.  While none of these specific missions established directly in the Central Valley, the agricultural techniques introduced by the missions spread here quickly.  The early efforts by Junipero Serra and the missions provided the initial infrastructure and knowledge base for California’s wine industry. 

In 1986, the establishment of Lodi American Viticultural Area marked the region’s growing reputation for premium wines. Other subregions are Clarksburg, known for its Chenin Blanc and Petite Sirah, and Madera, which focuses on dessert wines and fortified wines.  This is a beautiful area to drive through and the first thing you will notice is the wide array of agriculture.  The Central Valley produces over 200 crops, and it is likely you will drive through fields of cultivated almonds, pistachios, citrus fruits, tomatoes, and other food products, including huge dairy farms.  The region does face challenges such as drought, water rights disputes, soil salinity, and impact of varying weather patterns. 

Fig 1. Lucy and I driving into the Central Coast wine region of California. Ready to explore some large volume winemaker's and savoring some laid-back coastal aura and ambience.

In November 2022, Lucy and I traveled to Central Coast exploring regional grape varietals.  The trip from Las Vegas to Lodi offers a blend of scenic desert landscape, lush farmlands, and charming, small towns along the way.  Once in California you quickly get into the heart of the state’s agricultural belt as the drive has a balance of natural beauty and peaceful stops for the dog.  After the eight hour we checked out the Delicato Family Winery, in Manteca.  The Delicato Family has extensive vineyards and several prime wine-growing regions, including Lodi, Monterey, and Napa Valley.  They also have a collaboration with the Zac Brown Band with a blend, Uncaged Red Blend, as well as a Grateful Dead Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon.  Both are fun to drink!

Fig 2. Lucy steals the spotlight at Delicato Winery, Manteca, California - Four paws, a wagging tail, and vineyard vibes after a long road trip.

When we arrived, the wine stewards were excited to make sure Lucy (Fig 2) had a bowl of water before I was able to taste a flight of the proprietary wines.  The hosts made this one of the most pet-friendly wineries we have been to, ever!  One of their signature wines, Gnarly Head, is from an old vine Zinfandel that dates to the early 1900’s when Italian immigrants settled on the west side of Lodi and planted that variety.  The Gnarly Head label is well-known for its old-world vine Zinfandel, reflecting Lodi’s heritage.  Old vines are usually more than 25 years, with many well over 50 years old.  It is thought that old world vines lose productivity with age. The old vines grow deep roots that pull nutrients and water far below the surface resulting in the more concentrated wine flavor and vine suffering less vintage variation and tending to be more tolerant to floods and draughts. 

Here is the assessment of that wine:

Gnarly Head, Grateful Dead Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021, is a full-bodied, bold red wine.  It has a deep ruby appearance with medium plus intensity of 1) primary aromas: black cherry, blackberry, cherry cobbler, and bramble, 2) secondary aromas: oak influence including nutmeg and cinnamon, and 3) tertiary aromas: leather and toasty wood accents.  On the palate, the wine is dry with high alcohol, medium plus tannins, and medium acidity with those confirmed aromatic notes plus blueberry and vanilla.  This is a very good wine that has finish tailing tannins and tart cherry.  This is a versatile pair with anything, including a simple cheeseburger or slice of pepperoni pizza and a very, very cool tribute.

The next day, Lucy and I checked out the Klinker Brick Winery (Fig. 3) in Lodi.  The Klinker Brick is also a family-owned winery known for its Central Valley robust, old vine Zinfandel.  Rooted deep in the Lodi’s viticultural history, with the Felton family for over six generations dating back to the early 1900’s.  The vines are over 100 years old, producing lower yields but highly flavored grapes.  The century old vines have survived through meticulous care, including careful pruning, sustainable farming practices, and adaption to changing weather patterns, reflecting the generations of the Felton family dedication to preserving their legacy.  They also grow several Rhone-style blends and the Spanish varietals Tempranillo and Garnacha. 

Fig. 3 Lucy with her ears perked up with boundless excitement as we drive up to Klinker Brick, Lodi, California, soaking up the fresh scents of adventure.

Here is the assessment of the wine I tasted:

Klinker Brick, Old Vine Zinfandel, 2013, is a full-bodied, bold, still red wine with a deep ruby appearance.  This wine has medium plus aromatic intensity of 1) primary aromas: cherry, raspberry, blackberry, and plum, 2) secondary aromas: oak, vanilla, tobacco, and 3) tertiary aromas: sage and eucalyptus.  On the palate the wine is dry and perfectly balanced with acidity and tannins at a medium level with a high alcohol content.  The aromatic characteristics were also confirmed on the palate. This is a very good wine with structure and complexity. 

While it may not have the prestige of regions like Napa Valley or Sonoma, the Central Valley’s contribution to the volume and accessibility of wine crucial to California’s overall wine industry.  Wine from this region offers a wide range of styles, from every day, approachable wines to more complex, premium options.  Additionally, the winemakers place a strong emphasis on sustainability, with environmentally conscious practices in vineyard management, winemaking, and packaging.  And, tasting rooms like the Delicato Family Winery treat your pets like family! Below are some of my Lodi wine labels (Fig. 4):

Fig. 4 Lodi Wine Labels