Sonoma County
- Gregory Cellars
- Feb 15
- 9 min read
Updated: 6 days ago
There's something magical about visiting Sonoma County - the rolling vineyards, the crisp, coastal air, the farm-to-table menus, and, of course, the world-class wines. On this trip, I'm even more excited because my grandsons are meeting my dog Annie, for the first time! The boys had already met Lucy during our trip to Lake County in 2023. Sharing Sonoma County with my grandsons and Annie makes the experience even sweeter. The bond they formed was incredible, as we created some unforgettable memories together in one of my favorite places.
I lived in this incredible region for six years, and I dearly miss it. Sonoma is more than just a place, it's a feeling - one of warmth, connection, and a deep respect for tradition and the land. As the Russian River wind blows through the Petaluma Gap, shaping the vines and defining its terroir, I'm reminded that the wine itself is a living thing. At its core, wine is biology - yeast converting sugar to alcohol and bacteria transforming malic acid into smooth lactic acid. It's a process as natural and inevitable as the fog rolling in from the Pacific as beautiful as the sun setting over the vine-covered hills.
Sonoma County is one of the most significant wine regions in the United States, renowned for its diverse terroir and exceptional wine production, as well as its historical significance. Sonoma County has over 60,000 acres of vineyards and more than 425 wineries, producing a wide variety of wines, including world-class Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel. Its 19 unique AVAs, such as some of my favorites, Russian River, Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley, and Cisneros, highlight the region's microclimates and soil diversity, creating distinctive wine styles. With a rich history dating back to the early 19th century and a reputation for sustainable viticultural practices, Sonoma County has earned a place as a global leader in wine innovation and quality. The region holds a pivotal place in California's wine history, being home to some of the earliest vineyards and wineries in the state. Its wine story began in 1812 when Russian settlers planted grapevines at Fort Ross, making the first vineyard in Sonoma County.
The Sonoma Plaza was the site of the 1846 Bear Flag Revolt, where American settlers briefly declared California's independence from Mexico, leading to its eventual annexation by the United States. This historic event set the stage for increased American settlement in the area, which played a key role in shaping California's agricultural and wine industries. As more settlers arrived, including influential figures like Agoston Haraszthy, known as the "Father of California Wine", a Hungarian immigrant, arrived in Sonoma in the 1850's and founded Buena Vista Winery in 1857, one of California's oldest wineries still in operation.
In Sonoma Wine and the Story of Buena Vista, Charles Sulliven explores the rich history of Sonoma winemaking, focusing on the ambitious yet often controversial Haraszthy. Haraszthy, a Hungarian immigrant, called himself a "Count" while living in Wisconsin, though he had no legal claim to the title. After moving west, he became a prominent figure outside of the wine world, even being elected sheriff of the newly formed San Diego County in the 1850's. His influence in the state only grew as he turned his attention to winemaking, eventually founding Buena Vista Winery.
Despite his vision, financial struggles plagued Haraszthy, leading him to sell some Buena Vista's underdeveloped land to another of my favorites, Charles Krug, a key figure in the Napa Valley's wine scene (I wrote about Krug in my Napa blog posted in January, 2025). Haraszthy was also an innovator in winemaking techniques, producing a version of Tokay wine inspired by the famous Tokaji wines of northeastern Hungary. He expertly replicated the intricate Hungarian winemaking process, applying it to Mission grapes, among others. My admiration - and at times near idolization - of Agoston Haraszthy stems from his relentless ambition, innovative spirit, and unwavering dedication to elevating California winemaking.
I have closely followed Haraszthy's journey, and it is fascinating. Haraszthy was a visionary who introduced innovative vineyard practices and traveled to Europe to bring back 300 grape varietals, laying the foundation for the state's diverse viticulture. Despite challenges like failing in Wisconsin arctic winters, phylloxera, and Prohibition, Sonoma County's winemaking endured and evolved, cementing its reputation as a global wine destination. Haraszthy's contributions not only elevated Sonoma's wine industry but also shaped California's status as a leading wine producer, making his legacy integral to understanding the region's rich history. His death, in 1869, was under mysterious circumstances. After moving to Nicaragua to start a sugarcane plantation and distillery, he reportedly fell into a river and was attacked by alligators. His body was never found, adding an air of mystery to his death.
Buena Vista Winery is more than just a winery - it's a piece of California history. Walking through the historic stone buildings shaded by towering oaks, feels like stepping back in time. For me, visiting Buena Vista is almost like a pilgrimage - this iconic estate is my personal wine Mecca, a place where history, passion, and craftsmanship come together. And on this visit, I had Annie with me, making the experience even more special. Everyone we passed stopped to greet her, offering kind words and a few affectionate pats and rubs, adding to the welcoming charm of this legendary place.
Of course, no visit to Buena Vista would be complete without a tasting, and the wines and ambiance did not disappoint. Among the incredible lineup, I was particularly taken with a bold, beautifully structured Petite Sirah blend; its deep, inky color and rich flavors making a lasting impression. But what truly set this visit apart was the staff. Every conversation was meaningful, filled with not only tasting notes but also deep insights into the historical significance of this winery. From stories of Haraszthy's ambitious dreams to the role Buena Vista played in shaping California winemaking, each interaction enriched my appreciation for this special place. Sipping wine, learning about its storied past, and experiencing all with a laid-back golden retriever by my side - it was the kind of day that reminds me why I love Sonoma so much.
St. Francis has always held a special place in my heart, long before I ever stepped foot on this breathtaking vineyard. My first memories of St. Francis wine go back to Wisconsin, where my Uncle Mike would pour a glass to pair with Aunt Laura's famous lasagna and her homemade blue cheese salad dressing. That combination - rich, comforting, and perfectly balanced - has stuck with me over the years as one of the best pairings I've ever had. No matter where I travel, I always know when I see a bottle of St. Francis, I'm getting outstanding quality, a taste of something familiar and dependable in a world of ever-changing wine lists.
Now, hanging out here on the patio tasting wine with Annie lying down under the table, this visit feels almost meant to be. Named after the patron saint of animals, this place already has a deeper significance as I watch Annie relaxing in the sun and meeting a couple of new acquaintances, taking in the beauty of the vineyard just as much as I am. The rolling hills, the crisp, February air, and the elegance of this pairing is a new great memory, savoring not just the wine, pairing, and experience but everything it represents.
At St. Francis Winery, my tasting experience was elevated by the expertise of my fun and energetic server, Sandra, who guided me through a masterfully curated Estate pairing flight. She spent quality time talking with me about the history of the St. Francis Winery, the challenges they've faced, and the impact of the wildfires from a few years back. We discussed smoke taint, a phenomenon that occurs when grapevines absorb volatile compounds from wildfire smoke, which can result in undesirable flavors like ashy, burnt, medicinal notes in the wine. It was fascinating to learn how winemakers at St. Francis and across Sonoma wine country have had to adapt, using advanced testing and winemaking techniques to mitigate the effects. Through our conversation, I gained an even greater appreciation for the resilience and dedication behind every bottle of St. Francis.
But now it was time to indulge! It was a beautiful, sunny day on the patio - the perfect setting to enjoy great wine and great company. With Annie being well-behaved with other dogs on the patio, we were able to relax, visit with other guests, and soak in the warm, welcoming atmosphere for a couple of hours. We began with the 2023 Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc paired with Za'atar Fried Cauliflower, followed by the 2023 Russian River Pinot Noir alongside Hedgehog Mushroom and Gruyere Toast. Finally, we transitioned to the 2021 Behler Vineyard Merlot, perfectly matched with Roasted Butternut Squash and Pomegranate Molasses. With Sandra's deep knowledge and passion for wine, each pairing became an experience - not just a taste, but the interconnectedness of how flavors, textures, and terrior unite to create something super yummy and fun. This was the kind of afternoon that makes Sonoma so special - great wine, friendly faces and dogs, and the joy of sharing with Annie, acting all serious and business-like today.
Sonoma is a wine lover's paradise, and missing out on some of my favorite wineries in this region - Seghesio, Balletto, Castello di Amorosa, Francis Ford Coppola, Rodney Strong, and Jackson Family Wines - was a real disappointment. Each of these wineries offers something special, from Seghesio's incredible Zinfandels to the cinematic charm of Coppola's estate and the elegant Chardonnays of Balletto. Not being able to a walk with my dog Annie through the stunning Castello di Amorosa felt like a missed opportunity. But any lingering sadness quickly faded as I spent Super Bowl weekend with my twin 12-year-old grandsons - playing pickleball, devouring sushi, and rocking out on the electric guitar. Their energy and enthusiasm turned what could have been regret into pure joy, making the trip even more unforgettable building lasting memories with them.
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