Sierra Foothills
- Gregory Cellars
- Feb 11
- 10 min read
Updated: 6 days ago
The Sierra Foothills, nestled between the Sierra Nevada and the Central Valley, is a significant yet often overlooked wine region in California, known for its rich history and diverse terroirs. This area played a pivotal role in the state’s viticulture history, particularly during the Gold Rush era when settlers established vineyards to supply the growing population. The region’s varied elevations, microclimates, and well-drained soils create ideal conditions for growing a wide range of grape varieties, from Zinfandel and Barbera to Syrah and Tempranillo. This region definitely has the same feel as Big Bear in Southern California and Northern Arizona, near Sedona. For wine enthusiasts, the Sierra Foothills offers a unique blend of historic charm, scenic beauty, and a burgeoning wine scene, with many boutique wineries that showcase the region's exceptional quality and craftsmanship. With its old-world influence and modern innovation, the Sierra Foothills continues to appeal to both novice and experienced wine lovers seeking to explore California’s diverse wine landscape.
Prior to the Gold Rush, early viticulture in California was already taking root, with Spanish missionaries planting vineyards in the 18th century to produce sacramental wine. However, it wasn’t until the arrival of European settlers that the true expansion of California's wine industry began. European grape varieties, particularly from France and Spain, were introduced to American soil, significantly influencing the development of the region’s wine culture. Immigrant populations, especially Swiss, Italians and Germans, played a key role in shaping wine-making traditions, bringing with them centuries of expertise in viticulture and enology. These immigrants established vineyards, often in regions like Napa and Sonoma, where the climate closely resembled that of their homeland, and helped refine techniques that would define California’s wine industry for generations.
Snowshoe Thompson, born John A. Thompson in 1827, was a legendary figure in the Sierra Nevada, known for his heroic winter journeys on snowshoes to deliver mail and supplies to isolated mountain communities. For over 20 years, he braved treacherous terrain to connect remote towns in California and Nevada, playing a vital role in sustaining communication and trade in the High Sierra. His efforts not only linked these communities but also sparked interest in local agriculture, including wine production, as settlers began to see the potential of the region’s fertile valleys for growing grapes. Snowshoe Thompson’s journeys often brought with them news and goods, including wine, and his presence in these mountain towns helped cultivate a growing appreciation for regional wines. In fact, as a beloved figure, Thompson became a symbol of the self-sufficient and rugged spirit that characterized the early wine culture of the Sierra foothills. On multiple occasions, Thompson carried mail and supplies 400 miles in ten days over the Sierra Mountains.
The rugged spirit of the early pioneers and stories from winemakers to trailblazers like Thompson and the ill-fated Donner party, reflect deep resilience in the face of California's harsh and unpredictable landscape. Early viticulturists, much like Thompson-who indeed braved the treacherous Sierra to deliver mail-or the Donner Party, who endured unimaginable hardship relied on determination to survive and shape history prior to the Gold Rush of 1849. The challenges of establishing vineyards in the Sierra Foothills mirrored the struggles of these pioneers, as both required an intimate understanding of the land, the will to endure extreme conditions, and a vision for a better future.
In his book Gold and Wine: A History of Winemaking in El Dorado County, author Eric J. Costa highlights the unexpected yet significant role that James Wilson Marshall - best know as the discoverer of gold in California - played in the region's winemaking history. Costa notes that Marshall, along with his employer John Sutter, turned to viticulture after being displaced by gold rush settlers. Recognizing California's agricultural potential, both men sought out to cultivate vineyards, embracing what would become the state's other great treasure - wine.
By 1865, Marshall had planted over 120 grape varieties, dedicating himself entirely to the craft. According to Costa, he invested every cent of his earnings in acquiring new varietals from the East Coast and Europe, constantly expanding his vineyard's potential. His passion for winemaking extended beyond cultivation - Marshall personally oversaw every aspect of the process, from harvesting the grapes to cellaring the wine. His commitment to viticulture, though often overlooked, cements his legacy not just in California's gold rush history but also in its rich winemaking tradition.
The Gold Rush significantly transformed the wine scene in the Sierra Foothills by bringing an influx of miners and settlers, which created a demand for local goods, including wine. As the population swelled, many early pioneers established vineyards to supply the growing number of people who sought a taste of home or needed wine for trade. Vineyards flourished in the Sierra Foothill's diverse terroirs, and wineries like the Balducci Winery (established in 1857) and the El Dorado Winery were among the first to produce wine for both local consumption and export. The gold rush's boom in population helped the region develop a thriving wine culture that I fully enjoyed exploring for a few days.
After the Gold Rush in the mid-1800's, the Sierra Foothills saw a shift from mining to agriculture, with viticulture emerging as a key industry. Many European immigrants, particularly Italians and Swiss, who had initially come in search of gold, recognized the region's Mediterranean-like climate and rocky soils as ideal grape growing. By the late 1800's, numerous small vineyards and wineries had been established, supplying wine to local miners and growing settlements. Prohibition in the early 20th century nearly wiped out the industry, and it wasn't until the 1970's and 1980's that winemaking experience a revival. Pioneering vintners like Greg Boeger and Richard Bush, rediscovered the old vine Zinfandel and Rhone varietals thriving in the region's rugged terrain, helping to reestablish the Sierra Foothills as a respected wine-producing area.
Since that time, the Sierra Foothill wine industry has flourished, gaining recognition as a distinct American Viticultural Area in 1987. The region's diverse microclimates and elevations, ranging from 1,000 to over 3,000 feet, create ideal conditions for growing a variety of grapes, particularly bold, full-bodied reds. Zinfandel remains the signature varietal, with many vineyards boasting old vines dating back to the 19th century. Rhone varieties such as Syrah, Grenache, and Viognier have also thrived, along with Barbera, which reflects the region's Italian immigrant heritage. Winemakers in the Sierra Foothills emphasize small-lot, handcrafted wines that showcase the area's rugged terroir, resulting in deep, complex flavors with notable minerality and spice. This AVA has gained greater national and international recognition for its high-quality, character-driven wines, solidifying its reputation as a premier winegrowing region in California.
Boeger Winery is perhaps the most iconic and respected wineries in the Sierra Foothills. In 1972, Greg Boeger, a graduate of UC-Davis with a M.S. in agricultural economics and minor in viticulture, purchased Placerville's old Lombardo/Fosatti winery. In an absolute beautiful setting (Vid. 1), I had an amazing tasting experience with Luari, and was lucky to able to visit with Clare Kessler, an assistant wine maker with Boeger who is also adjunct faculty, in viticulture, at Folsom Lake College. Her course, a prerequisite for 4-year viticultural majors and home vintners or just curious wine lovers, takes the learner on a journey from bud burst to harvest and then through yeast used to corks and bottling. I am always grateful to meet talented winemakers who teach, whose passion and knowledge for the craft (Fig 5) makes for an inspiring and insightful conversation.
A wine tasting at Lava Cap Winery with Jeff and the laid-back, chill vineyard cat was an elegant and super fun experience, where I was served with rich, handcrafted wines complemented by the stunning views of the Sierra Foothills (Vid 2). Cindy, the tasting room and events manager, joined us for a minutes to talk shop and visit with the other patron at the wine bar. The winery's name reflects the unique volcanic soils that define its vineyards, imparting distinctive depth and complexity to each vintage. Lava cap is a term used by 19th century settlers that is a soil made up of volcanic ash over gravel compressed over thousands, and even millions, of years. Many times gold is also found under this type of earth's soil. This combination of terroir and craftsmanship makes Lava Cap a standout destination for anyone seeking both refined flavors and a connection to the land's geological history.
Our visit with Hannah with Madrona Winery was memorable and educational. She visited with me about the current winemakers and Paul and Maggie Bush, second-generation owners who are committed to small-batch, high-integrity winemaking. She told me that this particular property was chosen because madrone trees (Fig Arbutus menziesii) with fertile, well-drained soils, are ideal for vineyards. These distinctive trees thrive well in loose, well-aerated soil with good drainage, conditions also favored by grapevines. Early settlers observed where madrones grew, the land was often rich in minerals and supported a balanced ecosystem alongside native oak and other hardwood species. The natural indicator helped guide early viticulturists in selecting prime vineyard sites, with the help of modern-day soil testing kits. The Hillside Riesling and Grenache-based Rose were stunning examples of the region and what passionate winemakers bring to the table.
The Wise Villa Winery is a family owned and operated winery, estate vineyard, and Tuscan-style restaurant located near Lincoln, in the Sierra Foothills Wine Appellation of Placer County. During harvest, Dr. Lee, owner, triple sorts and implements whole berry, cold fermentation to retain a blanced wine with natural fresh fruit character. This expressions, based on my flight evaluation, are wines that are varietally correct and perfect for pairing with many types of food (Fig 10). The tasting flight included a 2019 Barbera, 2019 Merlot, 2019 Cab Franc, 2021 Touriga Nacional, and 2019 Tannat. Tannat, a grape common in Uruguay, is a bold, deeply structured red wine known for its high tannins, dark fruit flavors, and rich, earthy complexity and one I love. However, I ended up buying the bottle of Touriga Nacional to pair with sliders with its aromatic intensity and complex flavors of dark berries, floral notes, and spice, which makes this a standout in Portuguese single varietal expressions. A perfect afternoon to end this amazing road trip.
Winemaking in the Sierra Foothills has come a long way from its Gold Rush beginnings to its modern reputation as a hidden gem in California wine country. Through ups and downs, including Prohibition nearly wiping it out, the region has held onto its winemaking roots, evolving into a place known for bold, character-driven wines and passionate, small-scale producers. This is a region that I have to revisit, as I missed the elusive Narrow Gate in the Pleasant Valley wine region, that I was looking for. However, what I found was the unique blend of history, culture, and agriculture found here offers a rich experience for wine lovers and history enthusiast alike. Now is the perfect time to explore the Sierra Foothills, support its small, family run wineries, and experience firsthand the authentic, adventurous spirit that defines this extrordinary wine country.
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