Wisconsin

Fig. 1. Wisconsin wine study, Wisconsin Dells with my uncle and maps, 2024.

It’s been said, “A walk in nature, walks the soul back home….” Farmers Markets, veal brats, cheese curds, and Wisconsin wineries memorably did that for me.  I have been to Wisconsin (Fig. 1) many times touring a dozen wineries in the southern part of the state, and I would say I hit “gastronomical and viticulture gold mine”.  I say “gold mine” because in the 1840’s, Agoston Haraszthy, planted the first vineyard in Wisconsin.  Haraszthy, a Hungarian nobleman, incorporated the town in Wisconsin (Sauk City) and he planted those initial crops and dug wine cellars in what is now home to the Wisconsin AVA and the present, Wollersheim Winery (Fig. 2).  His European vines could not stand the harsh Midwestern winters, so he moved in 1849 to California during the gold rush, later to become known as the “Father of California viticulture”,when he became a successful vintner. 

On the slopes of the Sugarloaf Bluff, Wollersheim Winery is currently owned and operated by Philippe and Judy Coquard.  Coquard is a 13th generation winemaker from Beaujolais, France, where the family has been making wine since the 1600’s.  Closed during prohibition, the Wollersheim was reignited in 1972 when Coquard created a Fume-style wine, called Prairie Fume.  Over the past 30 years, Prairie Fume has won gold medals for its fresh and fruity style.  On my visit to the Wollersheim Winery, I was impressed with the way the winemakers combine traditional methods, a focus on local terroir, and inspiration from French winemaking. 

Wollersheim creates cool wines that embody a French aesthetic while showcasing Wisconsin’s unique environment.

Fig. 2 Wollersheim Winery, September 2022. Bring French elegance to Wisconsin.

The Wollersheim Winery also specially crafts a wine for the Ishnala Supper Club (Fig. 3).   For 70 years, Ishnala has been recognized as the best Upper Midwestern Lake fine dining establishment in the country.  The Ishnala Red is a velvety red wine blend crafted exclusively for the well-known supper club.  The proprietary blend combines Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot, resulting in a full-body wine with lush overtones of blackberries and black cherries.  The Ishnala is on the beautiful Mirror Lake State Park.  The owner, Bob Prosser, is always fun to talk shop with and have a glass of Ishnala Red.  My advice is to get their early!

Fig. 3 Wisconsin Dells, Mirror Lake, Ishnala Supper Club, 2023. Standing Room Only!

Thanks to French Hybrids and researchers at the University of Minnesota in the 1970’s, there are now many varietals that can survive severe winter extreme temperatures, such as in Wisconsin.  Brianna, Frontenac, Frontenac Blanc, Frontenac Gris, La Crescent, Leon Millot, Marchal Foch, Marquette, Niagara, St. Pepin, St. Croix, and Sabrevois are some of those varietals to name a few. I have been fortunate to have tasted all these varietals.   There are fantastic wineries all around the Wisconsin Dells that cultivate and blend these hybrid varietals.  Baraboo Bluff Winery (Fig.4) has astounding views of the region and is a sister property to Broken Bottle.

Fig. 4 View from Baraboo Bluffs Winery, Baraboo Wisconsin, 2024

A unique Wisconsin varietal is Petite Pearl.  This is a 1996 cross of MN 1094 and E.S. 4-7-26 and survived the 2014 Polar Vortex that reached -38 degrees.  I blind tasted four different Petite Pearls from Drumlin Ridge Winery, Bailey’s Run Winery, Hawk’s Mill Winery, and Baraboo Bluff Winery.  In general, I found the wines to vary in depths of color and have a medium ruby color.  On the nose, the wine(s) are medium aromatic intensity of blueberry, cherry, and plum with tertiary scents of anise, mint, and almond.  On the palete, the wine(s) have a fantastic balance of acids, tannins, and alcohol.  Dark ripe cherries and dark purple plum, along with cocoa and vanilla are evident in this varietal on the palette.  All four wines would be an excellent pair with any roasted chicken, hardy stew, or blue cheese dish.  

The historic square in Monroe, Wisconsin is a charming and vibrant focal point of the city that reflects the rich cultural heritage.  Monroe (also, my birthplace), often referred to as the “Swiss Cheese Capital of the United States”, embraces its Swiss heritage, evident in the design of the Green County Courthouse, built in 1891, and the local businesses that specialize in cheese, chocolate, and other Swiss-inspired products.  Spilled Grapes is a boutique wine bar on the square that features a nice wine list of Wisconsin and California wines.  The owners and staff are amazing and passionate about wine and midwestern hospitality.  I highly recommend a trip to Wisconsin during Cheese Days in Monroe.  If you like great Heartland bands and cheese festivals, you won’t be disappointed.  Additionally, nearby winemakers and vintners like Matt Boegner of Balanced Rock Winery and Dave Korb of Drumlin Ridge, produce wines from their boutique wineries from small lots of character.  Several of their wines were better than seeing the Packers beat the Goat, Tom Brady, during his last season in Tampa Sunday night when I was at the airport getting ready to fly back home to Las Vegas.

Best View:  Baraboo Bluff Winery

Amazing Wines: Balanced Rock and Drumlin Ridge Wineries

Best White: Rock n Wool Winery 2020 Bellweather (Brianna/Frontenac Gris)

Best Petite Pearl Red: Bailey’s Run and Hawk’s Mill Wineries

Must See Winery: Wollersheim Winery and Distillery

Best Bands:  Zac Matthews Band, FBI and the Untouchable Horns, Boogie and the Yo-Yo’s

Best Bar: 1800’s Swiss Bar/Cheese Shop:  Baumgartner’s 

Best Wine Bar: Spilled Grapes, Monroe Square

Best Burger: Award Winning Huber Burger at Minhas Brewery and Kitchen

Fig. 5 Wisconsin is so much more than the Green Bay Packers and cheese curds

Further study is needed in the state of Wisconsin.  In 2012, along the Niagara escarpment, the Wisconsin Ledge AVA was established.  The Niagara escarpment is a prominent rock ridge the spans over 650 miles across the Great Lakes region from the Niagara Falls in New York to the vineyards in Ontario, Canada, and forms the foundation of the Door peninsula.  The escarpment created large lakes in this region that temper the climate.   Many of the vineyards lie on eastern-facing slopes on top of glacier soils of gravel, sand, and clay on top of limestone bedrock.  The aquifer below the AVA provides mineral-rich ground water to the vines, encouraging deep root growth.  I very much want to taste these cool-climate, highly acidic French and American varietals in their natural environment. Listed below are my Wisconsin labels (Fig. 7, 8, 9) and AVA map (Fig. 10).

Fig 7 Wisconsin Wine Labels

Fig 8 Wisconsin Wine Labels

Fig 9 Wisconsin Wine Labels - American Hybrids

Fig 10 Wisconsin Wine Map - soils, varietals, history